Some Advice from Tuscany on what NOT to do...

Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 09:51:52 +1000

Subject: Advice on a brief trip to Tuscany

Dear Norman,

Tuscany!Some years ago I spent 3 1/2 months in an Australian Government (AustraliaCouncil) Tuscan studio/residence in a tiny village in the hills between Pisaand Florence, I'm fairly certain it changed my life (for the better).

I was not a stone carver in those days so I didn't really get into stonethings in a huge way.

Many of my friends and acquaintances dropped in for short stays and I foundmyself noticing that there were 2 distinct types of traveller, those thatcollect destinations and rush to see everything that you are "supposed tosee", and those who let Tuscany weave its incredible magic on them. By myway of thinking the second group went home with a far deeper experience.

There is tourist Tuscany and Tuscan Tuscany and the two barely collide. Ithink the most rewarding way to find the real stuff is to drive. Italiandriving takes a bit of getting used to! but it can be fabulous fun once youlet go of your own national driving style and submerse yourself in their's.There is a basic rule turn left or right off the main highway betweenFlorence and Pisa and you will just about always enter another world ofsmall villages set in the hills on either side of the Arno Valley (prettyindustrial all the way). Italians like to tell you that their country wasoften invaded but instead of the invaders changing Italians all invadersbecame Italian. You can see why if you start your day the way they do, go toyour local bar, stand up the bar and have an espresso or a late (should havean accent on the "e"), just as they do, forget de-caf, skinny mild and allthat. The little bars are the social centre of each little village, coffee,icecream (must be tried) alcohol (each little bar has what they call an"aperitivo della casa", every bar makes a different one)

Nearly every little village has what they call a "Sagra" this is a communitycelebration, all welcome, the reasons for these have obviously come downthrough the ages.Apart from Florence, Sienna, San Gimignano and Voltera + random villages amust.

Eating can be serious fun but finding a "real" Italian restaurant is verydifficult, the wildest experience is the ones that don't have a menu, a bitterrifying if you can't speak the language, I don't but Italians are veryhelpful. They sort of ask what you may want. then bring what they think youwanted along with appropriate local wine. The Tuscan's boast that Frenchcuisine was developed from their cooking, it is true,and what is best aboutit is that they make the very best of seasonal produce.

I know I haven't raved about the art etc but you can't miss that but you canmiss Tuscany if you don't let yourself live in it.

Have fun,

Regards

CliveSculptor

Clive Murray-WhiteWeb: www.cowwarr.com

The Duomo in Massa Marittima

Massa Marittima is a lovely town just 50 Kilometer away from Siena.

Here time has truly stopped and during some Summer nights, when the moon only shines over the Medieval buildings, it may seem possible to see someone dressed in old Medieval clothes pass by you and desappear behind a stone wall corner.

Massa Marittima erects itself on the top of a very high hill, dominating 360-degrees landscapes.

The duomo emerges at the top of a flight of steps in the beautiful Piazza Garibaldi, heart and focal point of the mediaeval city.Built in the 13th century in Romanesque-Gothic style, of note is the beautiful façade with arches and small loggias surmounted by pinnacles. The pointed bell tower is characterised by a series of fine four-light windows.

The three naved interior preserves notable works of art such as the 14th century travertine baptismal font, a 13th century crucifix and the "Madonna delle Grazie" 14th century, attributed to Duccio di Buoninsegna. The Duomo also preserves the "Natività" by Rutilio Manetti and on the high altar, the marble sculpture "Arca di San Cerbone", a masterpiece of Sienese school.Truly worth a visit!