Brussels

WHY GO NOW As the Capital of Europe for the 25 countries that make up the European Union, Brussels shows all the signs of world-class urbanity: great restaurants, smart hotels and terrific shopping. As the capital of Belgium, it also upholds the country's reputation for decadent chocolate, robust beer, sinuous Art Nouveau architecture and centuries-old traditions like the Ommegang Pageant, a spectacular annual reenactment of Emperor Charles V's entry into the city in 1549.

Best of all, the city doesn't take itself too seriously. It has a museum devoted to the comic strip (as well as enormous cartoon characters painted on the sides of buildings) and a much-beloved centuries-old bronze statue of a boy urinating in the center of town — the Manneken Pis. (A few blocks away is a new equal-opportunity girl fountain, the Jeanneke Pis.) In February, Brussels reopened another quirky landmark: the Atomium, a 335-foot-tall model of an iron crystal molecule, a quaint relic from the city's 1958 World's Fair.

And if that weren't enough, The Guardian of London last year declared that Brussels "now leads the way on the European party scene."

WHERE TO STAY Since Brussels can be seen as a sprawling collection of villages, it makes sense to stay near the Grand Place, the medieval central square. About a minute's walk away on Rue du Marché aux Herbes, three chain hotels sit side-by-side in nearly identical faux-Flemish buildings, with rates starting at roughly 100 euros a night, or $123, at $1.23 to the euro: the Ibis at No. 100 (32-2-514-4040, www.ibishotel.com), the Best Western at No. 110 (32-2-504-9400, bestwestern.com) and the Novotel at No. 120 (32-2-514-3333, www.novotel.com).

Perched on the rise directly behind them is Le Meridien (3 Carrefour de l'Europe, 32-2-548-4211, www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien.com), a more luxurious option. Its restaurant serves one of Brussels' most popular Sunday brunches. Standard rooms start at 195 euros; weekend rates at 165 euros, with breakfast. Nearby, the area's venerable Hotel Amigo (1 rue Amigo, 32-2-547-4747, www.hotelamigo.com) has newly renovated rooms featuring works by Belgian artists; doubles from 580 euros. The intimate Le Dixseptième (25 rue Madeleine 32-2-502-1717, www.ledixseptieme.be) was built, as the name suggests, in the 17th century; rooms start at 200 euros. As at most Brussels hotels, rates are deeply discounted on weekends and in the summer.

In the shopping-friendly Louise district, the Conrad Brussels (71 Avenue Louise, 32-2-542-4242, www.conradhotels.com) is housed in a stately 19th-century mansion. Doubles (billed as the city's largest) start at 229 euros; entry to the Aspria gym, spa and 55-foot-long pool is 25 euros extra.

The nearby Manos Premier (102 Chaussée de Charleroi, 32-2-537-9682, www.manoshotel.com) is a boutique gem set in an ivy-covered town house with a lovely garden and an exotic (think Ali Baba) spa. The rack rate for a double is 200 euros and includes breakfast. Look for the 185-euro special for Fridays or Saturdays (double room, double occupancy), which includes aperitif and dinner.

WHERE TO EAT Brussels used to boast more Michelin stars per capita than any other city. But in December, Michelin's not-so-little red book demoted nine local chefs and elevated only one restaurant, Le Pain et Le Vin, to a single star. A three-course "market menu" at Le Pain (812a Chaussée d'Alsemberg, 32-2-374-4962, www.painvin.be) is 52 euros. Comme Chez Soi (23 Place Rouppe, 32-2-218-0220, www.commechezsoi.be) retained its three stars thanks to intriguing dishes like roast Iberian pork in white beer with potato, leek and cardamom mousseline (35 euros). Book well in advance; the cozy (some say cramped) dining room fills quickly.

In the trendy Louise/Ixelles area, you'll find Marie (40 rue Alphonse de Witte, 32-2-644-3031), one of those happy little bistros where the lighting is soft, the jazz sweet and the food pleasantly inventive. The fish carpaccio starter (16.50 euros) comes with a hint of curry, and saddle of lamb (60 euros for two) is enlivened by roasted lemons.

At L'Idiot du Village (19 rue Notre-Seigneur, 32-2-502-5582), the kitchen turns out a savvy 15-euro lunch of warm grilled chicken on a tomato tart, followed by a rich beef Burgundy. Twenty- and 30-somethings pack the Franco-Japanese Chez Oki (62 rue Lesbroussart, 32-2-644-4576) for such ultimate fusion dishes as seared foie gras on sushi rice (15 euros).

Another discovery: Eat-Cetera (115 Chaussée de Charleroi, 32-2-537-7600, www.eat-cetera.be), where the innovative four-course menu costs 30 euros and changes monthly; recent dishes included porcini soup with gingerbread croutons and chèvre, and roast duck with lavender honey.

Mussels in Brussels? Locals recommend only one establishment on the touristy Rue des Bouchers: the traditional Aux Armes de Bruxelles at No. 13 (32-2-511-55-98, www.armebrux.be). The menu lists eight preparations, including raw (11 euros). In the sea of restaurants near the Place Ste. Catherine, the popular Pré Salé (20 Vlaamsesteenweg, 32-2-513-6545) prices its mussels according to market — 1.2 kilos of moules maison (mussels with rosé, wine and cream) were recently going for 21.50 euros, fries included. For oyster-eating, Champagne-drinking, and beautiful-people-watching, try Lola (33 Place du Grand Sablon, 32-2-514-2460), with a dozen oysters starting at 18 euros.

WHAT TO DO DURING THE DAY Start with the Grand Place, with its Gothic Hotel de Ville, neo-Gothic Maison du Roi, Flemish Renaissance guildhalls and chocolatiers, like Godiva. If you go between Aug. 15 and 18, the square will be carpeted in begonias as part of the Tapis de Fleurs biennial celebration. Then walk up the hill to Belgium's royal museums: the Museum of Ancient Art and the Museum of Modern Art (Place Royale, 32-2-508-3211, www.fine-arts

-museum.be). They are linked, so you can follow the helpful "circuit" signs from Hieronymus Bosch to René Magritte. Nearby is the Musical Instrument Museum (2 rue Montagne de la Cour, 32-2-545-0130, www.mim.fgov.be), housed in a wondrous multistoried Art Nouveau treasure, formerly the Old England department store.

The Belgian Center for Comic Strip Art (20 rue des Sables, 32-2-219-1980, www.cbbd.be) is as famous for its Tintin exhibit as its Art Nouveau structure, created by the famous Belgian architect Victor Horta (1861-1947). Horta's own house, with an adjoining studio, is also a museum (25 rue Américaine, 32-2-543-0490, www.hortamuseum.be).

WHERE TO SHOP For contemporary housewares and furniture, go to Flamant (36 Place du Grand Sablon, 32-2-514-4707), a store that is divided into homey rooms, one with a working fireplace, and kitted out entirely with stuff for sale. Grand Sablon, the high-end antiques center, is also home to some of Belgium's best chocolatiers.

Just follow the Japanese tourists to Pierre Marcolini at No. 39 (32-2-514-1200) or Wittamer at No. 6 (32-2-512-3742). If you prefer your calories in a cookie, amble over to nearby Dandoy (31 rue au Beurre, 32-2-511-0326), where there will be samples to try before you buy.

For specialty items, head to the glass-covered arcade of the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert (opened in 1847). There are shops selling exquisite lace (Manufacture Belge de Dentelles at No. 6-8, 32-2-511-1477), luxury leather goods (Delvaux at No. 31, 32-2-512-7198), designer jewelry (Ciel Mes Bijoux at No. 16, 32-2-514-7198) and, of course, chocolate (Neuhaus at Nos. 25-17, 32-2-512-6359).

For the hottest in Belgian fashion, check out the boutiques on rue Antoine Dansaert, especially Stijl at No. 74 (32-2-512-0313), home to edgy designers like Ann Demeulemeester (for women) and Raf Simons (men).

WHERE TO GO AT NIGHT Despite its life-sized toy horse and souvenir T-shirts, the Roi d'Espagne cafe (1 Grand Place, 32-2-513-0807, www.roydespagne.be) hasn't been completely taken over by tourists. After a Leffe Brune ale (3.90 euros), the classically minded can take in a concert at Bozar (23 rue Ravenstein, 32-2-507-8444, www.bozar.be) or an opera at La Monnaie (Place de la Monnaie, 32-2-229-1200, www.lamonnaie.be), a neo-Classical jewel dating from 1819.

Or just hit the bars. On a recent night near the Place St. Géry, an artsy crowd listened to international folk music at Zebra (31 Place St. Géry, 32-2-513-5116), trendy types wisely disregarded the Abba music at Mappa Mundo (1-6 rue du Pont de la Carpe, 32-2-513-5116) and just about everyone else packed into the tiny Archiduc (6 rue Antoine Dansaert, 32-2-512-0652) for live jazz. And this was Sunday. Hip locals settle into the sofas at the Living Room (50 Chaussée de Charleroi, 32-2-539-2111, www.lelivingroom.be), an upscale restaurant and bar in the Louise district, with uppity guys guarding the door.

Not far from the Manneken Pis, the Rue du Marché au Charbon is the center of the city's gay life. Le Belgica (at No. 32, 32-2-511-2600, www.lebelgica.be) is a kitschy tavern regarded by locals as an institution. Tels Quels (No 81, 32-2-512-3234, www.telsquels.be) is both a gay information center and friendly bar. (Also check www.gaymap.info/bruxelles.)

YES, FREE The European Parliament offers weekday tours of its handsome glass headquarters in the mostly residential European Quarter (43 rue Wiertz, 32-2-284-3457, www.europarl.eu.int; tours start at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.). A 45-minute audio guide (free, and available in 19 languages) tries to explain what the parliament does during its annual 12-day sessions in Brussels.

YOUR FIRST TIME OR YOUR 10TH Whether it's an old Nebraska license plate or a vintage Yves St. Laurent jacket, the flea market at the Place du Jeu de Balle, down the hill from the Palais de Justice in the gentrifying Marolles district, just might have it. The market is open daily, from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., but Sundays are the biggest and best.

WHERE TO STAY WIRED Brussels is blessed with neighborhood convenience stores that double as cyber cafes. In the night-life district, Belgium Internet (at the intersection of Rue du Marché du Charbon and Rue du Midi) has five terminals for 1.50 euros an hour.

HOW TO GET THERE American and Delta have daily nonstops from Kennedy Airport, starting as low as $592 in late April (American on Expedia.com). Continental also has direct flights from Newark. And Brussels is just one and a half hours from Paris by train (about 115 euros, round trip, on the Thalys).

GETTING AROUND With its many spread-out neighborhoods, Brussels is a confusing city for visitors, and the mass transit maps don't help much. Nevertheless, a 4-euro all-day pass can get you almost anywhere, either by subway, tram or bus. Taxis are plentiful but not cheap (1.23 euros a kilometer, after the 2.40 euro pick-up charge).

Correction: July 9, 2006 The Going To column on April 9 about Brussels misstated the dates of the Brussels Flower Carpet, a biennial event that covers Grand Place with begonias. It is Aug. 12 to 15 this year, not 15 to 18. A reader pointed out the error by e-mail on June 20.